Constantly giggling at all the crazy things here in Chile's capital city, which feels to me like it's just awakened from a long, long slumber... The people are absolutely great, super friendly and far from aggressive, the salt of the earth, but for a world capital, DIO MIO it is more than just a wee bit behind the times! Chile's largest metropolis is understated, to say the least: the cultural offerings seem very restrained and formal, women of all ages wear high-necked collars and sensible shoes, primarily clad in black and grey... On second impression, a religious and conservative culture... Everything is comparatively slow and such a drastic change from colourful, crazy Brazil! Valparaiso has much more of an artistic, bohemian flair... There was of course a military dictatorship here in Chile (see: Pinochet) until the early 1990's, so I think that this fact has had a major effect on the nation as a whole: maybe a lack of exposure to the outside world, trends in cuisine, fashion, and what is currently "in vogue." The cinemas are all showing the same films and 30 year old women are dressed like grandmothers.
Still, that being said, we are really enjoying our time here... The Hotel Fundador is seriously like a relic from the past: we are staying in an absolutely gorgeous suite (with thread-bare sheets and worn carpets) and the hotel has a beautiful hardwood lobby, but the facilities are like something out of 1970's Moscow: old trimline telephones, creeky lifts, dusty dying plants, and the breakfast tastes like un-salted, school cafeteria food: plastic croissants and tasteless cheese. Paul and I keep joking that we feel like we are staying in a very posh old-folks home! Most of the other guests are business men in poly-blend suits and middle-class families visiting the capital on holiday... very strange indeed. Despite everything, Santiago has many positive things going for it: the fabulous location at the foot of the Andes, which loom overhead as a permanent backdrop; the fantastic people, who smile without hesitation; and the amazing selection of great wines in every supermarket... can´t beat that.
Tonight, we are going on a desperate search for something EXCITING in Santiago, to the neighborhood of Bellavista, where the majority of the restaurants, bars, and nightclubs are located... I really hope that "exciting" doesn't translate into "dangerous." It is Tuesday, however, so I feel as though we are setting ourselves up for a bit of a disappointment. I'll let you know how it goes. xxx Jason
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From the reading, it sounds as though Agnetha & Frida are about to walk around the corner...ah, only you could find such places Jason. Indeed. I've put your blog on my bookmark bar, I LOVE IT. xxoo jnm
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